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My first London Fashion Week - Amy's CQ adventure...

With our brilliant Editorial Director Jess busy cycling across Kenya, team CQ needed some extra help during London Fashion Week this year. So we called upon the fabulous Amy Hill to help us out. Now she's had time to sleep and digest, here's what she thought of her first LFW experience...
When Catwalk Queen invited me to cover London Fashion Week with them, I think anyone within a 10 mile radius heard me squeal with excitement. A chance to work alongside professional writers and photographers, to interview designers backstage, and watch next season's collections come to life in front of me? How could I say no! I wasn't about to let a broken big toe break my spirit, even though it meant I couldn't wear any particularly fashionable footwear...
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In favour of extra time in bed, I picked out suitable outfits a few days before, which above anything else, stopped me from having an emotional "oh-my-god-everything-remotely-fashionable-I-own-is-in-the-wash" breakdown. Knowing that days were going to be long and chaotic, I always made time for breakfast; although I was running on so much adrenaline on the first day that it wasn't until I got home in the evening that I realised I hadn't eaten anything at all!
Each day was completely different - sometimes I was up at 6am, others I worked until 1am, furiously typing and attempting to string together coherent sentences before falling asleep at my computer. The week began at Somerset House where I met Editor in Chief, Gemma Cartwright and our videographer, Liam Southall. After quickly obtaining our press passes and exploring the press lounge, I was ready to eat, sleep and breathe fashion.
I quickly discovered your phone becomes your lifeline and your enemy rolled into one! It's your alarm, your touch stone, your backup camera and your Dictaphone, with emails flying backwards and forwards, it would be in my hand before I'd stepped out of bed in the morning.
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The shows buzz with electricity and creativity, both on the catwalk and backstage. No matter how aware you are of how much time and effort goes into a show, it's still a shock to see one model sat in a chair with four people backcombing and styling her hair at once, two people applying all new make-up, and someone on their knees taking off and re-applying nail varnish. At the shows I had to learn fast how to juggle my phone, camera and notebook at the same time. Reviewing from the office was equally feverish, hunting for livestreams for any shows we couldn't attend, using Twitter like an informal press release to assess the tone and inspiration behind a collection from blurred photos and 140 characters, and writing up reputable reports before anyone else.
Highlights of the week include swooning over the Burberry show with Gemma, celebrity spotting at PPQ, people watching in general, going backstage at Jean Pierre Braganza with Beauty Editor Steph Powell, and enjoying DAKS with Shopping Editor Kate Williams.
It's been physically and mentally exhausting in the best possible way, and I feel so privileged to have worked alongside some extremely inspirational people over the last few days. After all of the sweat, blood and tears that is London Fashion Week, in the end the reward comes from getting to work with a fantastic team who support and encourage you.

Gareth Pugh's dark knights roam Paris Fashion Week A/W 2012

pfw gareth pugh aw12 image 1.jpgIt was another runway show which greeted buyers and editors at the presentation of Gareth Pugh's Autumn/Winter 2012-13 collection. The British designer opted for the runway instead of his usual video installations, but they were no less dark and moody.
Set in a disused garage in Rue de Turenne, Pugh's models traipsed along as black leaves fell from the ceiling - very Autumn-like indeed. In typical Pugh architectural styles, he sent his warriors out onto the stage in over-the-knee boots, sharp shoulders, high leather cowl necks, folded tunics and giant coats. Based on a palette of mostly black and grey. Incorporating fur and fringing, the collection was set on a shape of cinched in waists, full skirt coats, as well as zip-up capes.
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For the celebs in the front row which included Daphne Guinness and Jefferson Hack, the sculptured nature of this collection didn't fail in delivering the drama. Pugh's tendency to add a strong, bold and brooding feel is one that has become a unmistakable part of his design mantra. For someone like Rooney Mara in The Girl With The Dragon Tattoo, almost every piece could have made it into her wardrobe. Wouldn't that have been brilliant?

Paris Fashion Week Autumn / Winter 2012-13 season is here!

mcqueen_2.jpgOh the excitement of it all! I am delighted not simply because Paris Fashion Week (the pinnacle of all fashion weeks) has started, but because very soon fashion bloggers, editors and buyers everywhere put finally be able to put their feet up and enjoy a nice cup of tea after another very jam-packed Fashion Month. And that's always worth being happy for!
On that note we say bonjour to PFW for another season which officially kicked off yesterday. With so many big fashion stories floating around at the moment, e.g. Raf Simons leaving Jil Sander, Jil Sander returning to Jil Sander, Stefano Pilati departing YSL and plenty of other rumours as to who will replace him, the scene has been set for one very big week of delectable fashion morsels.
On the schedule front we are looking at shows today from Dries Van Noten and our boy Gareth Pugh followed by collections tomorrow courtesy of Balenciaga, Balmain and Nina Ricci. Friday sees shows from Isabel Marant, Lanvin, and Christian Dior (who will be named the new creative director at Dior? The bets are still on!)
This brings us to a weekend of goodies from the likes of Viktor & Rolf, Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, John Galliano and Givenchy. The last three days should also not be missed with shows from Stella McCartney, Chanel, Valentino, Giambattista Valli, Chloe, YSL, Louis Vuitton and Miu Miu all helping to round out PFW.
Check out the full schedule of shows here.
As for us, well we'll once again be bringing you round-the-clock coverage from the catwalks to the front rows to backstage and beyond. Make sure to check back regularly for all of our show reports and more candid musings from Gemma, Andrea and myself on Twitter via @catwalkqueen
Hold onto your peplums folks because this one is going to be a epic!

Paris Fashion Week Autumn / Winter 2012-13 season is here!

mcqueen_2.jpgOh the excitement of it all! I am delighted not simply because Paris Fashion Week (the pinnacle of all fashion weeks) has started, but because very soon fashion bloggers, editors and buyers everywhere put finally be able to put their feet up and enjoy a nice cup of tea after another very jam-packed Fashion Month. And that's always worth being happy for!
On that note we say bonjour to PFW for another season which officially kicked off yesterday. With so many big fashion stories floating around at the moment, e.g. Raf Simons leaving Jil Sander, Jil Sander returning to Jil Sander, Stefano Pilati departing YSL and plenty of other rumours as to who will replace him, the scene has been set for one very big week of delectable fashion morsels.
On the schedule front we are looking at shows today from Dries Van Noten and our boy Gareth Pugh followed by collections tomorrow courtesy of Balenciaga, Balmain and Nina Ricci. Friday sees shows from Isabel Marant, Lanvin, and Christian Dior (who will be named the new creative director at Dior? The bets are still on!)
This brings us to a weekend of goodies from the likes of Viktor & Rolf, Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, John Galliano and Givenchy. The last three days should also not be missed with shows from Stella McCartney, Chanel, Valentino, Giambattista Valli, Chloe, YSL, Louis Vuitton and Miu Miu all helping to round out PFW.
Check out the full schedule of shows here.
As for us, well we'll once again be bringing you round-the-clock coverage from the catwalks to the front rows to backstage and beyond. Make sure to check back regularly for all of our show reports and more candid musings from Gemma, Andrea and myself on Twitter via @catwalkqueen
Hold onto your peplums folks because this one is going to be a epic!

Paris Fashion Week Autumn / Winter 2012-13 season is here!

mcqueen_2.jpgOh the excitement of it all! I am delighted not simply because Paris Fashion Week (the pinnacle of all fashion weeks) has started, but because very soon fashion bloggers, editors and buyers everywhere put finally be able to put their feet up and enjoy a nice cup of tea after another very jam-packed Fashion Month. And that's always worth being happy for!
On that note we say bonjour to PFW for another season which officially kicked off yesterday. With so many big fashion stories floating around at the moment, e.g. Raf Simons leaving Jil Sander, Jil Sander returning to Jil Sander, Stefano Pilati departing YSL and plenty of other rumours as to who will replace him, the scene has been set for one very big week of delectable fashion morsels.
On the schedule front we are looking at shows today from Dries Van Noten and our boy Gareth Pugh followed by collections tomorrow courtesy of Balenciaga, Balmain and Nina Ricci. Friday sees shows from Isabel Marant, Lanvin, and Christian Dior (who will be named the new creative director at Dior? The bets are still on!)
This brings us to a weekend of goodies from the likes of Viktor & Rolf, Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, John Galliano and Givenchy. The last three days should also not be missed with shows from Stella McCartney, Chanel, Valentino, Giambattista Valli, Chloe, YSL, Louis Vuitton and Miu Miu all helping to round out PFW.
Check out the full schedule of shows here.
As for us, well we'll once again be bringing you round-the-clock coverage from the catwalks to the front rows to backstage and beyond. Make sure to check back regularly for all of our show reports and more candid musings from Gemma, Andrea and myself on Twitter via @catwalkqueen
Hold onto your peplums folks because this one is going to be a epic!

Paris Fashion Week Autumn / Winter 2012-13 season is here!

mcqueen_2.jpgOh the excitement of it all! I am delighted not simply because Paris Fashion Week (the pinnacle of all fashion weeks) has started, but because very soon fashion bloggers, editors and buyers everywhere put finally be able to put their feet up and enjoy a nice cup of tea after another very jam-packed Fashion Month. And that's always worth being happy for!
On that note we say bonjour to PFW for another season which officially kicked off yesterday. With so many big fashion stories floating around at the moment, e.g. Raf Simons leaving Jil Sander, Jil Sander returning to Jil Sander, Stefano Pilati departing YSL and plenty of other rumours as to who will replace him, the scene has been set for one very big week of delectable fashion morsels.
On the schedule front we are looking at shows today from Dries Van Noten and our boy Gareth Pugh followed by collections tomorrow courtesy of Balenciaga, Balmain and Nina Ricci. Friday sees shows from Isabel Marant, Lanvin, and Christian Dior (who will be named the new creative director at Dior? The bets are still on!)
This brings us to a weekend of goodies from the likes of Viktor & Rolf, Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, John Galliano and Givenchy. The last three days should also not be missed with shows from Stella McCartney, Chanel, Valentino, Giambattista Valli, Chloe, YSL, Louis Vuitton and Miu Miu all helping to round out PFW.
Check out the full schedule of shows here.
As for us, well we'll once again be bringing you round-the-clock coverage from the catwalks to the front rows to backstage and beyond. Make sure to check back regularly for all of our show reports and more candid musings from Gemma, Andrea and myself on Twitter via @catwalkqueen
Hold onto your peplums folks because this one is going to be a epic!

Nina Ricci's modern nostalgia from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2012

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Upon first glance of Nina Ricci's Autumn / Winter 2012-13 collection, one of the first ideas to spring to my mind was that of a little girl delving into her grandmother's trunk to play dress ups. It was only afterwards that I learnt of Peter Copping's inspiration for the collection which was that of "an imaginary young girl exploring the wardrobe of her mother, grandmother and former generations."
Bingo!
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Using the idea of nostalgia for the present, Copping based his signature French lingerie on the idea of them being updated by being thrown together with modern pieces. Each romantic look offered a darling insight into what a young girl who might encounter her grandma's old wardrobe might be inclined to create. Not surprisingly it was a mish-mash of layers with silky slipdresses worn beneath a woolly coats and teamed with fur trimmed long gloves. Sheer black blouses were styled under chunky tweed skirt suits, along with patchy knit sweaters and knee-high leather boots that zipped up the front.
It was vintagey and lovely without feeling like someone had just jumped out of a charity shop bin. I adore the girlie playfulness of this collection, which wasn't afraid to be feminine and sweet all at the same time.

Balmain's Fabergé fiesta at Paris Fashion Week A/W 2012

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I love that for his Autumn / Winter 2012-13 collection for Balmain, Olivier Rousteing turned to a Fabergé egg for inspiration. But not just any run-of-the-mill Fabergé egg (if there is such a thing), but rather a Fabergé egg that was once owned by Elizabeth Taylor. No, I'm not kidding! According to The Cut, Rousteing found inspiration in the egg's ultimate frivolity which Taylor once had a cake made in honour of. Once again, I'm not joking!
The egg was once given to Taylor by Richard Burton and stole Rousteing's attention when he saw it in person. "I went to New York and saw the Christie's exhibit, and it was so beautiful," he told WWD. "I loved the opulence."
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But back to the clothes... in only his second season at the helm of Balmain, Rousteing took embellishment to new, cool kid heights. There was plenty of ornamental detail to feast one's eyes on thanks to his Baroque style of pearl, crystal and stud encrusted brocade jackets, skirts and dresses.
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Using a quilting technique, the designer went super luxe with velvet thigh-splitting skirts, gold embellished belted trousers, shiny gold edged jackets, and sparkly boxy blazers. With this in mind, he still managed to add a distinct Balmain rock 'n' roll element thanks to leather trousers, pastel biker jackets with exposed zips, dazzling mini dresses, and some pretty major velvet pieces in deep forest green.
A fascinating and flamboyant take on classics is why we'll see many of these pieces on the chic likes of Carine Roitfeld or Emmanuelle Alt come Autumn time.

The Nineties are back! Mugler's A/W 2012 Paris Fashion Show

mugler pfw aw12 image 1.jpgInsects were crawling all over Nicola Formichetti's Autumn collection for the house of Mugler yesterday. Not literally of course, but that's where the designer found his inspiration by revisiting Thierry Mugler's "Insect" collection from 1997.
Just like Gareth Pugh, Formichetti took sculpture to new heights with hugely exaggerated shoulders, laser cutting, spider thin dangly fringed skirts, and angular peplums took centre stage. Also quite remarkable were the bone-like structuring of armoured bodices which met with oversized furry arms. Dresses pleated and folded into milky white white forms which were also peppered with a bright red jumpsuit, a mustardy-orange column dress, and black mini skirts with cut-out sections. Along with the clearly adventurous there was an equal amount of relaxed looks such as a series of cream belted overcoats with fur collars.
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Dior softens up under Bill Gaytten's hand for AW 2012 at Paris Fashion Week

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A Bill Gaytten Dior show is an interesting thing. After years of high drama and over the top styling under Galliano's reign, seeing models with pared-down hair and makeup taking to the catwalk in simple, sophisticated putty and mauve tones and basic black feels very different indeed.
Of course different isn't necessarily bad; the collection is beautiful, wearable and feminine, but it does lack the 'wow' factor of previous Dior shows and takes the label in a softer new direction. Gaytten is less about spectacle, more about nice clothes.
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Considering this is Autumn, the clothes had a very Summery palette, but this was made more appropriate for the season through fabrics - heavy wools, super-soft leather (in full skirts, twisted on tops and as panels on dresses) and thick quilted satin. Hats and gloves topped many looks, harking back to the era for which the label is best known. In some places, the fabrics resembled rich upholstery; one coat and dress combo came in a thick woven brocade, also seen on a tie-front dress with high neck.
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Elsewhere, the show had ballet influences, with pretty ballgowns with net underskirts and satin bow bodices and sheer sections - somehow managing to be modern and chic, not cheap and childish.
It was all pretty, chic and accomplished, the colours were beautiful and the shapes classic and wearable. But I still found myself wanting more. The Dior of my generation has always been showstopping, not subtle. Gaytten will never take his final bow dressed as a pirate or buccaneer and adjusting to this may take a while, but I'm sure it will happen.
Unless, of course, an official replacement for Galliano is finally announced and we get a whole new Dior once again next season...though that's looking unlikely at the moment.
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Fendi mixes it up at Milan Fashion Week A/W 2012

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It was a mixed bag at the Fendi Autumn / Winter 2012-13 show yesterday. Karl Lagerfeld threw the rule book out as he mixed a variety of colours, fabrics and textures throughout the presentation of the ready-to-wear collection.
His program notes cited the "infinite, innovative interplay of textures, colours and fabrics," and that it was. Think furs, crocodile skins, PVC, cashmere and layers of colours such as green, purple and navy. Throughout the show there was a continual stingray theme which appeared on everything from blouses to tights, handbags and shoes. Further to this, Lagerfeld unveiled pleats, peplums, capes, tailored coats, peaked shouldered jackets and more. It was a mish mash but somehow it all seemed to work.
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Zara Martin's Fashionable Week - London Fashion Week

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London Fashion Week (in a nutshell|)
It's OVER.
Favourite LFW shows:
Felder Felder
PPQ
Moschino Cheap and Chic
Vivienne Westwood
Mark Fast
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Best Parties:
- James Small after party which I Dj'd at. The catwalk show was pretty fun
too! Lots of heckling male models etc. I was in his campaign video with
Fazer from N-Dubz. Check it out here.
- She Died of Beauty at the Ivy Club. Love the T-shirts Erin O'Connor & Kate
Halfpenny are doing, so cute and ethically produced.
- Tank 'Best Of British' at the Shop at the Bluebird.
- Vivienne Westwood at The Box. What happens at The Box, stays at The Box.
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Favourite outfit of the week:
Tata Naka cape, silver Stylestalker skirt, Moschino bag and Mechante of
London shoes I wore to the Moschino Cheap and Chic show as Peaches' date.
She looked so amazing head to toe in the collection - here we are with the
designer, Rossela Jardini.
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Favourite track of the week:
For smashing the Topshop party to pieces it has to be 212 by Azealia Banks.
Just wow.
Top Beauty Find: Sleep.

Top fashion find:

Lei Van Kash jewellery. Particularly the Dagger Ring in Rose gold.
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Everyone's talking about:
Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has To Travel - the superbly inspiring documentary
screened at the Mayfair Hotel in association with River Island and Fash/ON
Film.
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Tweet of the week:
From Patrick Grant of E.Tautz "@Etautz: I'm going to name the bags under my
eyes Lana and Del Rey."
Paris, anyone?

Naomi Campbell leads the charge at the Roberto Cavalli A/W 2012 show

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It has been a big couple of days for Roberto Cavalli. Not only did he dress a slew of celebrities including Alessandra Ambrosio, Cindy Crawford, and Bar Refaeli for Sunday night's Oscars events, he also just unleashed his Autumn 2012-13 collection onto the catwalk at Milan Fashion Week.
And wasn't it a show to be talked about!
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The Italian designer closed his show with bang by inviting Naomi Campbell to make her comeback appearance during the finale. Although according to some, the supermodel's presence made little impact on a show with WWD referring to Campbell's inclusion as "the caboose on a train with no steam." Ouch!
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What it seems WWD was talking about were the bright "bubble gum" youthful dresses which seems to take over Cavalli's vampy collection. Of course we saw many of his usual glamorous staples - fur, leather, animal skins, and feathers back again, but this time he seemed to want to mix these with more girlie baby doll dresses in bright colours such as fuchsia and teal. Along with the minidresses there were an equal amount of long hemlines with billowing skirts dropping to the floor in metallic sequins and animal prints. For evening, he unveiled tiered maxi gowns which exuded a gypsy, Stevie Nicks type of quality. Mystery may be what Cavalli intended for this collection, but for some they were simply left mystified.

Front row from Milan Fashion Week A/W 2012

Milan Fashion Week seems to belong to the international editor contingent, as there were far more bold faced names from the mastheads than from the pages of our favorite magazines. Many Italian celebrities showed up of course, but American and British actresses were clearly busy at the Oscars this week. Check out our gallery for pics of Anna, Carine, Emmanuelle and more!

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Alberta Ferretti sets the mood at Milan Fashion Week A/W 2012

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Widely renowned for her light, heavenly evening gowns, Alberta Ferretti showed us a rare darker side at the presentation of her Autumn / Winter 2012 ready-to-wear collection in Milan. Gone were the sweet, girlie gowns and in their place were some ultra modern, moody dresses that stuck to a strong, sleek silhouette.
Aimed squarely at the modern woman who is "equipped to handle the challenges of today's world." Ferretti unveiled sharp tailoring, classic outerwear, and sophisticated separates. Using a palette of cream, black, vibrant purple, royal blue and orange-red, the Italian designer equally balanced out the heavy - chunky knits, fur trims and boxy jackets with the light - delicate sheer blouses, satin pencil skirts and soft wide-leg trousers.
Best known for her evening gowns there would be a Hollywood actress, or two, who would have kept a close eye on this collection, and with good reason. There was several long sheer embrodiered black dresses most suitable for the occasion, as well as a bold purple strapless number which featured loose strips at the hemline. With just the right amount of moodiness, Ferretti succeeded in created a sharp modern collection with still the essence of her signature elegant femininity.
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Louise Gray's quirky QR codes at London Fashion Week AW 2012

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Louise Gray's catwalk show is always a fun fixture of London Fashion Week, and it wasn't long before the Scottish designer was trending on Twitter. Gray sits firmly on the maximalist side of fashion; every collection is a surprise and choc full of ideas and influences to unpack.
Before the show even started the atmosphere was set with champers and haggis toasties for the waiting audience, QR code invites gave a little clue of what was to come. The front row included fellow designer and friend Henry Holland, Central St Martin's Louise Wilson and the Herald Tribune's Suzy Menkes.
Gray livened up the crowd with pumping house anthems like Work It Girlfriend and Get Your Hands Off My Man, just the thing make everyone forget their Sunday London Fashion Week slump.

The soundtrack may have been 90s but the collection harked back to a decade earlier. Gray mixed a range of 80s influences, there was definitely a punky, New Wave feel with the stripy blusher and Nazir Mahzar's mohican millinery, but there were also elements of sleek power-dressing coming through in the dresses and tailoring, a bit Working Girl meets Poly Styrene.
Overall the feel was more hard-edged than with previous collections; polka dots usually crop up somewhere in a Louise Gray show, but this season was all about graphic prints and tesselated shapes. With the darker mood for Autumn Gray took QR codes as a starting point and created prints which appeared on her trademark knee-high boots, dresses and quirky two-piece skirt suits.
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Jean-Michel Basquiat style scribbles and messy screen-prints reinforced the post-punk DIY aesthetic, mixed with metallics and ikat it made for an eclectic but ultimately pulled-together look. Louise Gray loves a bra top and this season she added a bubble wrap bralet which gave a DIY feel to her more ladylike outfits.
Beginning to take apart the many layers that make up Gray's collection is half the fun, pieces like the screen siren draped silver beaded dress, the sharp sculptural coats and the multi knits peeking through tunics and tops definitely demand further investigation.

Gucci's romantic gesture at Milan Fashion Week A/W 2012

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The dark romanticism of Gucci was unleashed upon the catwalk on the opening day of Milan Fashion Week yesterday. Frida Giannini delved into her love of the pre-Raphaelite era in creating her Autumn / Winter 2012-13 ready-to-wear collection.
Models flaunted 19th century-inspired brocades, chiffon dresses, ruffled collars and jacquards. With the decadence at the forefront of her mind, Giannini added all the luxury elements of fur, silk, velvet and leather to her Edwardian-esque looks which seemed to be made up of layer upon layer of garments. In contrast to the billowing gowns, there was also a strong equestrian theme which comprised of Gucci's signature leather riding boots in flat styles and trousers that were reminiscent of jodhpurs.
But back to the billowing gowns... Gucci did not fail in adding the glam aspect to her latest collection. With the Oscars just over the horizon (psst: it's on Sunday - don't miss our extensive coverage!) Giannini offered floor-length halterneck dresses in a moody floral print, sheer asymmetrical numbers adorned in shimmery embellishments and plunging neckline versions with long sleeves in alluring forest green and velvet variations.
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What we wore to London Fashion Week Feb 2012 - day five

It's the final day of London Fashion Week, and while we're all a bit knackered, the promise of killer shows from Mary Katrantzou, Holly Fulton, Meadham Kirchhoff, Ashish and Aminaka Wilmont got us out of bed bright and early. Here's what the CQ team wore for their last trip to the tents...
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Amy wore: Grey midi dress and suede flats from Topshop, Moschino belt, boyfriend blazer from Only, handbag by Therapy.
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Gemma wore: Stella McCartney for H&M tuxedo jacket, graphic floral dress from Wallis, Accessorize suspender tights, buckled heels from ASOS, studded suede bag by Beth Ditto for Evans and necklace from Butterfly by Matthew Williamson.
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Steph wore: Agent provocateur bodysuit, Topshop jeans (rip by Steph - does that count as 'customised'?) and Kurt gieger boots
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