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Balmain's Fabergé fiesta at Paris Fashion Week A/W 2012

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I love that for his Autumn / Winter 2012-13 collection for Balmain, Olivier Rousteing turned to a Fabergé egg for inspiration. But not just any run-of-the-mill Fabergé egg (if there is such a thing), but rather a Fabergé egg that was once owned by Elizabeth Taylor. No, I'm not kidding! According to The Cut, Rousteing found inspiration in the egg's ultimate frivolity which Taylor once had a cake made in honour of. Once again, I'm not joking!

The egg was once given to Taylor by Richard Burton and stole Rousteing's attention when he saw it in person. "I went to New York and saw the Christie's exhibit, and it was so beautiful," he told WWD. "I loved the opulence."
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But back to the clothes... in only his second season at the helm of Balmain, Rousteing took embellishment to new, cool kid heights. There was plenty of ornamental detail to feast one's eyes on thanks to his Baroque style of pearl, crystal and stud encrusted brocade jackets, skirts and dresses.
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Using a quilting technique, the designer went super luxe with velvet thigh-splitting skirts, gold embellished belted trousers, shiny gold edged jackets, and sparkly boxy blazers. With this in mind, he still managed to add a distinct Balmain rock 'n' roll element thanks to leather trousers, pastel biker jackets with exposed zips, dazzling mini dresses, and some pretty major velvet pieces in deep forest green.
A fascinating and flamboyant take on classics is why we'll see many of these pieces on the chic likes of Carine Roitfeld or Emmanuelle Alt come Autumn time.

The Nineties are back! Mugler's A/W 2012 Paris Fashion Show

mugler pfw aw12 image 1.jpgInsects were crawling all over Nicola Formichetti's Autumn collection for the house of Mugler yesterday. Not literally of course, but that's where the designer found his inspiration by revisiting Thierry Mugler's "Insect" collection from 1997.
Just like Gareth Pugh, Formichetti took sculpture to new heights with hugely exaggerated shoulders, laser cutting, spider thin dangly fringed skirts, and angular peplums took centre stage. Also quite remarkable were the bone-like structuring of
armoured bodices which met with oversized furry arms. Dresses pleated and folded into milky white white forms which were also peppered with a bright red jumpsuit, a mustardy-orange column dress, and black mini skirts with cut-out sections. Along with the clearly adventurous there was an equal amount of relaxed looks such as a series of cream belted overcoats with fur collars.
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Dior softens up under Bill Gaytten's hand for AW 2012 at Paris Fashion Week

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A Bill Gaytten Dior show is an interesting thing. After years of high drama and over the top styling under Galliano's reign, seeing models with pared-down hair and makeup taking to the catwalk in simple, sophisticated putty and mauve tones and basic black feels very different indeed.
Of course different isn't necessarily bad; the collection is beautiful, wearable and feminine,
but it does lack the 'wow' factor of previous Dior shows and takes the label in a softer new direction. Gaytten is less about spectacle, more about nice clothes.
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Considering this is Autumn, the clothes had a very Summery palette, but this was made more appropriate for the season through fabrics - heavy wools, super-soft leather (in full skirts, twisted on tops and as panels on dresses) and thick quilted satin. Hats and gloves topped many looks, harking back to the era for which the label is best known. In some places, the fabrics resembled rich upholstery; one coat and dress combo came in a thick woven brocade, also seen on a tie-front dress with high neck.
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Elsewhere, the show had ballet influences, with pretty ballgowns with net underskirts and satin bow bodices and sheer sections - somehow managing to be modern and chic, not cheap and childish.
It was all pretty, chic and accomplished, the colours were beautiful and the shapes classic and wearable. But I still found myself wanting more. The Dior of my generation has always been showstopping, not subtle. Gaytten will never take his final bow dressed as a pirate or buccaneer and adjusting to this may take a while, but I'm sure it will happen.
Unless, of course, an official replacement for Galliano is finally announced and we get a whole new Dior once again next season...though that's looking unlikely at the moment.
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Nina Ricci's modern nostalgia from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2012

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Upon first glance of Nina Ricci's Autumn / Winter 2012-13 collection, one of the first ideas to spring to my mind was that of a little girl delving into her grandmother's trunk to play dress ups. It was only afterwards that I learnt of Peter Copping's inspiration for the collection which was that of "an imaginary young girl exploring the wardrobe of her mother, grandmother and former generations."
Bingo!

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Using the idea of nostalgia for the present, Copping based his signature French lingerie on the idea of them being updated by being thrown together with modern pieces. Each romantic look offered a darling insight into what a young girl who might encounter her grandma's old wardrobe might be inclined to create. Not surprisingly it was a mish-mash of layers with silky slipdresses worn beneath a woolly coats and teamed with fur trimmed long gloves. Sheer black blouses were styled under chunky tweed skirt suits, along with patchy knit sweaters and knee-high leather boots that zipped up the front.
It was vintagey and lovely without feeling like someone had just jumped out of a charity shop bin. I adore the girlie playfulness of this collection, which wasn't afraid to be feminine and sweet all at the same time.

Lanvin glamour at Paris Fashion Week A/W 2012

Alber Elbaz celebrated his 20th anniversary at Lanvin tonight at their Autumn/Winter 2012 show at Paris Fashion Week. I like to see the Elbaz we saw onstage with friend Kim Paper playing glockenspiel with band Pink Martini and presenting a collection full of edgy glamour is the real, truest Elbaz. The collection still had his signature sophistication, but was definitely more rock and roll and amped up. It seems as if the glamour quotient has been increasing
as we move through the fashion weeks, starting to become a bona fide trend in Milan and truly dazzling in Paris.
The looks that weren't ultra bedazzled with faux jewels and fur were sent down the runway in strong silhouettes and bold colors. Darker dresses were dripping with detail and embellishment to make the heart race.
After the show Elbaz sang Que Sera, Sera to guests including Tilda Swinton, Jessica Alba and Dita Von Teese. It was a heartwarming celebration of his artistic genius and he seemed to enjoy every second, as we have enjoyed his career.

Sophisticated dresses as expected at Roland Mouret's Paris Fashion Week A/W 2012 show

Celebrity spots: Jessica Alba, Kristen Stewart & Mila Kunis at Paris Fashion Week

It didn't take long for the celebrity crowd to make their way to Paris for a week's worth of ready-to-wear shows. Thursday morning Kristen Stewart made an appearance at the Balenciaga show. With five days off from wrapping up several films, Kristen arrived at the show in an incredibly slimming pair of leather trousers and printed sleeveless blouse.
At Christian Dior one of our favourite actresses
Mila Kunis arrived fresh from shooting a new campaign for the fashion house. "I saw the clothes already, but I am excited to see what the presentation will be like," the actress told WWD. Although she is quick to deny any plans to hit the catwalk. "I am barely able to walk in real life," she added.
Later that night, the starlets emerged for the Autumn / Winter 2012-13 Lanvin presentation. Jessica Alba brought the glamour in a black-and-white one-sleeved minidress featuring a gorgeous embellished neckline. She was joined by the statuesque Tilda Swinton, who donned a claret-coloured draped dress perfectly suited for her possie on the front row. Oh to be one of the Hollywood crowd!

Moonlight and madness at Viktor & Rolf's A/W 2012 Paris Fashion Week show

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With a giant moon hanging in the backdrop the scene was set for a dramatic presentation from Viktor & Rolf. In dramatic poses, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren emerged against the glowing wall like in distinct silhouettes.
Perhaps there was a werewolf theme to this collection, as a majority of it consisted of brown furry coats, dresses and blouses. There were also fur-trimmed boots and a black pantsuit with fur accents. Animal prints were another important feature of this collection in the form of silk pyjamas which were printed to mimic fur.

The other aspect of this Autumn / Winter 2012-13 collection was the dark, film noir inspiration. With wavy-lake hair, models strutted their stuff in floor-length satin gowns, oversized tailored suits, tweed shorts, sheer lingerie-style dresses, and gowns with cascading metallic fringing that layered down the length of the skirt. Karlie Kloss closed the show in front of an A-list crowd which included Katy Perry.
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A shadow of John Galliano at Paris Fashion Week A/W 2012

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In his second season designing for John Galliano, Bill Gaytten pretty much stayed on message. It seems as if his task until a new maestro is announced is to just keep going on with John Galliano's vision as well as anyone other than Galliano himself can.
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The collection had the beauty, the edge, the Victorian femininity mashed up with modern
sexuality that we all loved about John Galliano's designs ... just somehow less so. It still feels like a less-inspired version of something else ... a sanitized version of Galliano ... no matter how close Gaytten gets it, right down to the fantastical headpieces (this season done in what we can assume to be real plumage).
There are some to die for pieces, for sure, and the workmanship and creativity are there. I just wonder how long the house can idle and stall before the public demands a successor and a new creative vision for the house known for innovation and cerebral, showstopping fashion.
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Gaytten was inspired by the drawings of Aubrey Beardsley, a late 19th century English society man and Art Nouveau sensation part of Oscar Wilde's circle. The Galliano girl this season was - as she often has been - very British, very equestrian. The show gave us some of the best accordion pleats of the season, which is saying something, and even kept the thigh-high trend from looking stale or overtly, overly sexual. (And isn't that a Galliano trick at that?)

English sports with Stella McCartney at Paris Fashion Week A/W 2012

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How very fitting that in the year that she will unveil her designs for the British Olympics team, Stella McCartney chose sports as the inspiration behind her Autumn/Winter 2012 collection. The British designer not only looked to the sporting world but to her own roots in the English countryside with her Villager-meets-cool-casual-gal collection.
With flashes of bold electric blue, fuchsia, coral and dusty blue Stella took on Paris's Hôtel de Ville gold-plated city hall to present her very wearable Fall offering. Alongside sporty bomber jackets were tennis dresses, and knitted ski jumpers. For a bit of country,
she threw in tweed tulip dresses, pale twin sets and textured riding jackets. Of course it wouldn't be a McCartney collection without some boy elements creeping in. Slouchy trousers, oversized coats, and alpaca and mohair patchworked sweaters definitely had menswear stamped all over them.
"Cutting into the tradition of English countryside with urban energy," was how she described the collection. I'd say she's about spot on, wouldn't you?

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Jean Paul Gaultier's concrete jungle at Paris Fashion Week A/W 2012

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It is fairly apt that Alicia Keys descended upon Paris Fashion Week this morning because when looking at pictures of the Jean Paul Gaultier show I can't see to get her song Empire State of Mind out of my head! Likewise it appears as though the French designer also can't get New York, and Paris and London out of his head with the launch of his Autumn / Winter 2012-13 collection over the weekend.
Gaultier took all the edgy and grungy parts of Downtown New York, Paris and every other major city with a tonne of graffiti, and wrapped them up into one ready-to-wear collection. A mixture of sophisticated suits, graffiti prints and rock 'n' roll pieces, he was liberal in his use of black but not so much that it
killed the vibe. He also worked in metallic graffiti patterns, and tough biker jackets were in stark contrast to the clean cut suits which featured loose-wearing grey trousers, tailored jackets and crisp white shirts. Eveningwear was electric with vampy black gowns with thigh-high splits and furry hemmed midi dresses.
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Paris Fashion Week: Givenchy Autumn / Winter 2012-13

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Giddy up fashion lovers because Riccardo Tisci wants to take you on a ride! The Givenchy designer saddled up for the unveiling of his Autumn / Winter 2012-13 collection this week with strong references to equestrian, Guy Bourdin and Paris in the 1970s.
For the horsey aspect, he sent models down the runway in riding jackets, loose jodhpurs, leather chaps, and thigh-high tall boots. Leather coats were quite intimidating with oversized flaps and capes. But this wasn't any garb for the lady who likes to trot about on her pony, it was aimed squarely at those who like to gallop in the fast lane.

In contrast, Tisci also stepped away from the leathers and chaps to present silky lingerie slip dresses which featured lace embroidery and delicate pleats. Each boudoir-inspired piece was accessorised with a brightly coloured belt, satin choker and super-long black gloves. With strong dark lips and eyes, this look bordered on Gothic and just that little bit creepy.
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Slim trousers and crystals from Chanel at Paris Fashion Week A/W 2012

Karl Lagerfeld definitely took some risks at the Chanel A/W 2012 fashion show at Paris Fashion Week. Tweed sets we might expect to see in tailored skirt suits were rendered in skinny pants and long coats, either slouchy and cocoon shaped or belted above the natural waist. Like at Prada, the silhouette was length truncated above the ankle, making it tough for naturally petite women!
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Do you miss the 1990s trend of dresses and skirts worn over trousers? Rejoice, Karl is bringing it back with a vengeance. Aside from this heavily layered silhouette, the key influence was
crystals (which we saw in London from Aminaka Wilmont) seen in texture, embellishment and those eyebrows.
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This was also the most colourful Chanel show in recent years, with chiffon pieces and twisted scarves with swirly coloured prints, and chunky knitwear in patchwork jewel shades.
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Though the way it was styled for the show was harsh and unflattering at times, individual pieces had legs and put a modern twist on Chanel classics.

Paris Couture Week Autumn/Winter 2012-13 begins today!

Jean Paul Gaultier couture SS12 1.jpgWhat a season we have to look forward to! With Paris Couture Week kicking off tonight, it looks set to be a bumper few days with the return of Versace's couture collection starting at 7.30pm this
evening. The show marks the first couture offering from Donatella Versace since 2002. She will also use the occasion to unveil her brand new Atelier Versace jewellery line to the industry.
In other news, the fashion world will also be turning its attention to Raf Simons and his début for Christian Dior. His first-ever fashion show for Dior will be live-streamed on Elle.fr and Diormag.com on July 2 at 2.30pm (Paris time). While Dolce & Gabbana recently announced they would be presenting their very first couture collection, not in Paris but rather in Italy, in front of a select group of clients and media on July 9.
Other designers on this week's Haute Couture schedule includes Giambattista Valli on Monday evening, Chanel on Tuesday morning, Givenchy on Tuesday evening, Jean Paul Gaultier on Wednesday afternoon, and Valentino and Maison Martin Margiela on Wednesday night to finish off events.

Versace to return to Couture catwalk with two shows in Paris

versaceatelier1.jpgIt looks like we are in for a real treat this forthcoming couture season, with the news that Versace will return to the catwalk to present its Spring/Summer 2012 Haute Couture collection in Paris.
Atelier Versace re-joined the Paris Couture schedule last season after an eight year hiatus with a small presentation. Now the fashion house is going full steam ahead
with not one, but two shows to be staged at The Ritz Paris on July 1. Just in time before the iconic hotel closes on July 31 to undergo a major renovation.
The venue holds much sentimental meaning for Donatella Versace. It was the location of her brother Gianni Versace's last runway show in 1997 before he died. It was also the site of many Atelier Versace shows between 1990 and 2004 before the line was put on hold.
"It is with tremendous emotion that I return to the Ritz where I shared so many special moments with my brother," Donatella said. "The closing of the Ritz Paris for two years represents the end of an era but also the beginning of a new one, so to be able to show Atelier Versace there one last time will be a memorable milestone."
A fitting location for a high volume glamour Versace show!

Dolce & Gabbana to unveil first-ever couture collection

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The Dolce & Gabbana lads are getting ready to début their couture collection next week. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana will unveil their first-ever haute couture collection on July 9 but will keep their show in Italy instead of Paris. They will showcase a small collection of couture designs to a "group of clients" in Taormina Sicily, according to the Financial Times.

The group of exclusive attendees will comprise of select clients and only three media outlets. Sounds like a Tom Ford show to me! The Financial Times reports that the designer duo decided to show away from the French capital to side-step the "stringent requirements the French couture world imposes on any brand that wants to call itself a full-fledged couture house." It also allows them to present their first couture offering away from the full critical glare of the world's media.
The move follows Dolce and Gabbana's decision to end their diffusion line, D&G last year in order to provide "even more strength and energy" to their mainline. Haute Couture Week, which kicks off this Sunday, will also play host to the return of Versace's couture line. Donatella Versace will present first full Atelier Versace couture collection after an eight-year hiatus on the weekend. The catwalk show will also be used as a platform for the fashion house to launch a new Atelier Versace jewellery collection. Double the excitement!

One Month On - Our London Fashion Week highlights

One month on from London Fashion Week, we've had time to digest, go over the pictures again and think about the real highlights of the week. Even now, there are some shows that stick with us, though it was difficult to pick from an amazing schedule of shows, both on and off schedule. Here are just four of the shows we think will dictate what we're wearing in Autumn / Winter 2012-13.

Mary Katrantzou

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Mary Katrantzou's show is always a LFW hot ticket, delivering intricate prints made up of unusual objects you'd never expect to see on the catwalk. This season, she ramped it up yet again, with dresses emblazoned with typewriters, trims made up of sharpened pencils and loads of stationery-inspired touches to add to the usual oversize jewels and textures. Branching out into eveningwear with bold maxi dresses and adding some sheer touches with fluffy, frilly babydolls, every new look was another chance to gasp. It shouldn't work, but it really, really does.

Topshop Unique

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The Topshop Unique show can often be a bit of a crazy mix of 80s and 90s trends that looks cool on the catwalk but are more difficult to translate to real life if you're not a slim, artsy type in your very early twenties. So it was a surprise that the Autumn / Winter 2012 collection was a far more classic, subdued look, a huge departure for the label. It seemed the Topshop Unique girl had grown up a bit for the colder weather, choosing a Burberry-inspired look heavy on cool coats and outerwear with a high-end grungy touch that harked back to early Marc Jacobs. It was a grown-up, wearable range that eschewed the usual gimmicks and over-styled touches to appeal to a wider market, and it really worked.

Peter Pilotto

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If Mary Katrantzou is the queen of LFW prints, Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos are her kings. The duo are known for their bold prints with modern, space-age touches and a futuristic feel, but they branched out more where it comes to texture for Autumn / Winter, ramping up the drama with it. This season influence came from the far east, with oriental florals and a range of dresses inspired by Japanese 'Light Trucks' (think 'pimp my lorry'), while a partnership with an outerwear brand saw their bold graphic designs on puffa jackets and gilets for the first time. Fur trims in bright colours added texture to the designers' trademark slim-fit dresses, and hemlines hit the floor with the first range of eveningwear. It was a step up from just bright prints, and showed a dedication to growth and expansion for the young designers. Next season we're hoping for swimwear too - imagine a cutout Pilotto swimsuit!

McQ Alexander McQueen

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Anyone who thought the first show from Alexander McQueen's diffusion label McQ would be a watered-down version of the main label's shows was in for a surprise on entering the indoor woodland that provided the setting for this spectacle. A leaf-strewn double-width catwalk played host to models in sharp military-inspired coats, moving into beautifully embroidered and embellished New Look-inspired party dresses and - for the finale - two intricately embroidered ballet-length cocktail frocks with sheer sleeves, one in black and one in white; the bridal look worn by Kristin McMenemy as she pulled a rope from the ground and followed it through the woods to a hidden nightclub. As the show closed, the audience were invited to follow Kristen's journey themselves...walking through a misty, cold forest in the middle of a warehouse was definitely the most memorable moment of fashion week for our team!

London and New York Fashion Week confirm dates for the next two years

LFW Margaret Howell AW 2011 - image7.jpgAfter settling the dispute over dates earlier this year, London and New York have released the confirmed dates for their fashion weeks for the next two years.
Both the British Fashion Council and CFDA have come to an agreement on when they will hold their events following a schedule clash over the spring/summer 2013 season which involved Milan and Paris as well.
"Both the BFC and CFDA are confident that this confirmation will ensure the smooth running of both Fashion Weeks and allow for designer brands and businesses in all four fashion capitals - New York, London, Milan and Paris - to successfully plan for the long term," the BFC said in a statement.
For those of you keen to get the dates into your diaries, here are the show dates for the next two years:




SPRING/SUMMER 2013

  • New York: September 6 -13, 2012

  • London: September 14 - 18, 2012
AUTUMN/WINTER 2013-14

  • New York: February 7 - 14, 2013

  • London: February 15 -19, 2013
SPRING/SUMMER 2014

  • New York: September 5 - 12, 2013

  • London: September 13 - 17, 2013
AUTUMN/WINTER 2014-15

  • New York from February 6 - 13, 2014

  • London from February 14 - 18, 2014
SPRING/SUMMER 2015

  • New York from September 4 - 11, 2014

  • London from September 12 - 16, 2014

Peter Pilotto stands by London Fashion Week: "It's becoming stronger"

As if we didn't love Peter Pilotto already, the designer duo has just made us fall for them even harder! During a training clinic at Saks Fifth Avenue this week, the pair opened up about why London Fashion Week is gaining more respect from the fashion community.

"A while ago, it was like you had to start in London and try to get out of there as soon as possible and move to Paris or New York," Pilotto said. "But London Fashion Week is becoming a stronger fashion week. It's great. I guess London has realised it has to support its new talent since there aren't too many of the big old houses."
Of course it is a well-known fact that fashion editors and buyers would often skip London Fashion Week after New York and head straight to Milan. Now with the likes of Anna Wintour attending LFW, as well as a string of British designers returning to the capital to show (e.g. Tom Ford, Stella McCartney, etc) the event is beginning to find its place again within Fashion Month.
"People go because they really enjoy seeing it," not because it's an obligation or a big advertiser or anything," Pilotto said. "Everyone who goes there goes because they're curious. They're excited to see what's coming."
There is no denying it, events such as LFW are helping to open more doors for British designers, a selection of which have recently been brought to New York and Los Angeles by the British Fashion Council to show off their goods. And it seems the trip was worth it for Peter Pilotto with Saks agreeing to carry more of the label for winter. Yipee!

Kim Kardashian and go karts at Kanye West Autumn 2012 show

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As blogged previously Kanye West returned to the runways of Paris this week to unveil his Autumn / Winter 2012 womenswear collection. After a rocky start last season, the rapper-turned-designer wasn't about to bow down to his critics despite not really having the credentials to justify a show at Paris Fashion Week.

Helping to cement his spot on the schedule were pals Alicia Keys and Kim Kardashian who took up the front row in an effort to bring a bit of star power. Kim instantly made headlines for wearing a pair of £3,681 woollen sandals which were designed by West for his Spring / Summer 2013 collection in collaboration with Giuseppe Zanotti. She also climbed on board a go cart which was part of the show's after-party events.
But on to the clothes...
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The reviews so far for this collection have been marginally better, but it seems Kanye is far from really deserving a place at Paris Fashion Week. Having said that his Autumn 2012 offering was sexy and a little bit rock 'n' roll with loads of fur, black leather, and crocodile skins. Needless to say this one had Kardashian written all over it.
The improvement was there although there have been plenty of comparisons to Givenchy. Pieces did seem to fit better this time around and work with the model's body instead of against it. However, the overall feeling is that as long as the fashion jury is up in the air, so is his future as a legitimate womenswear designer.
Tell us, what do you think of Kanye's AW12 collection?

Atelier Versace AW 2012 at Haute Couture Fashion Week

You'd be forgiven for thinking Donatella Versace has never experienced Autumn or Winter, looking at the clothes she chose to show for Atelier Versace's long-awaited return to the Ritz in Paris for Haute Couture Fashion Week.
Much of the collection was completely inappropriate for the colder months, but lest we forget, the kind of woman who can wear and afford Versace's couture designs probably doesn't have to worry about a little old thing like outside temperature.

(If she does, she could always sling on the rose gold leather coat that offered the one nod to the milder months).
This was a typical Versace show, bringing in most of the elements for which the label is known and loved. There were scarf prints on diaphanous, floaty evening gowns with thigh-high splits and corseted waists, there were many, many cinched waists, by way of wrestler-esque belts with Versace branging, and there were super-tight mini dresses in bold prints - coming soon to a January Jones near you, no doubt.
Eveningwear was as elaborate and decorative as you'd expect, in shades of aqua, lilac, lemon, cornflower and all kinds of pinky-beige for that sexy 'second skin' look. Many had a delicate, cobweb look, with punch-outs, laddering and intricate embroidery that gave the impression they might disintegrate at any point.
The pop-pastel colour scheme and proliferation of sexy eveningwear was all familiar Versace territory, but this is no bad thing. Donatella managed to give the show a softer look than Spring / Summer's acid brights and futuristic metallics, and it succeeded all the more for it.