Monday afternoon at London Fashion Week and it's time for the Erdem AW12
show at the White Cube Gallery. At first glance it all seemed a little
industrial for a designer famous for creating beautifully colourful
pieces, but the gallery space was the perfect place to display Erdem's
pieces of art.
A collection inspired by Peggy Guggenheim, the show unveiled a master
class of print along with tweed accents and lace over neon shades.
Texture and paint splattered patterns appeared in all shapes, from
oversized overcoats and floor length dresses, to ankle boots provided by
Nicholas Kirkwood.
Erdem let the clothes speak for themselves, with models wearing
minimal, dainty makeup and polished ponys finished with a black bow -
only the perfectly painted nails provided extra colour with a custom
made blue to match the shades in the collection. Signature pieces
included lace and overlaid florals, in particular an acid green lace
mini dress which made heads turn. The colour palette consisted of deep
blues, acid green, purples, with bright tweeds being a personal
favourite - the masterpiece for me was a sleeveless, purple tweed and
leather dress with a corset styled insert.The collection held a very
1950's style aesthetic, mixing elegance and optimsim with a modern day
front. Florals had attitude and yet, it was never OTT. Femininity shone
through even the haardest of fabrics, with leather looking pretty as
apposed to tough.
Erdem has described the wearers of his label as "a clever person who
probably cares little about seasons", which might be the reason behind
so many sleeveless designs within the collection (and let's face it, if
we owned one of these dresses, we'd wear it in any weather).
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