If there's one thing you won't be seeing in Autumn / Winter 2012 from David Koma, it's cleavage. With the exception of a couple of round-neck jackets, his entire collection featured high necks and stand-up collars, not unlike the ones worn by a certain Mr Lagerfeld.
Aside from the collar, an oversized oval-shaped metal eyelet was the key to this collection, and it appeared not only on coats and dresses to create punch-out holes (often with vibrant colours poking through), but also in the models hair, holding ponytails in place. The shape was also recreated in prints and textures, and the show closed with a white dress covered in the eyelet motif in glittering pale aqua and silver.
We saw lots of peplums, many of which were attached almost like an afterthought in shimmery striped fabrics on plain coloured structured dresses, protruding from those eyelet details. In places, the dresses had an unfinished feel - a lot of the fabric frills and volume detail was only on the front, while the backs were simple, fitted sheaths - a little like they're designed to only be seen from the front.
Elswhere there was a touch of fur - most dramatic in a thick belted coat - and sheer panelling with curvy piping, a look we've seen at a lot of London Fashion Week shows this season, and an easy way of making an otherwise summery dress a little more covered-up for Winter.
Overall, this was an incredibly cohesive collection with a clear theme running through and some beautiful dresses in incredible shapes. But on occasions, it missed some of the 'wow' factor of Koma's previous work, and I was crying out for a really bold shape or decoration away from that eyelet.
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