With clientele ranging from Michelle Obama and Kate Middleton, to Hollywood stars Keira Knightley and Carey Mulligan, we couldn't wait to see what Roksanda Ilincic had to offer today at the Institute of Directors in Pall Mall.
Whilst the crowds filtered in, chamber music filled the room, setting a regal tone that matched the grandeur of the show space. However, as the models graced the runway, it wasn't to the sound of strings...it was a hip-hop beat. The contrast of the music reflected in Ilincic's AW12 collection, where 40's styling met 90's sportswear - this was high-end casual like never before!
It was a meeting of two worlds, with a colour story that started in her signature subtle way. Garnet reds and midnight blues moved into teal, purple and white as the show developed. Pops of yellow came from the shoes, whilst shimmering gold thread wove it's way through oversized coats and into our hearts. The combination of fabrics on each outfit was unmistakably progressive, with boxy cut silk tops with long sleeves and fur shoulders transforming into luxury hoodies as the models turned. Jersey mixed with silk, crushed velvet and fur; feminine satin tunics gently pushed into masculine construction with suits and oversized coats.
Attention to detail was carried out through zippers, stitching, bead work and patterns, including oversized plaid on sleeves and weekend bags with chunky rope ties. Effortless, undone buns and tired, smudged eyes added to the care-free look.
Mixing luxe elegance with sporting elements is no mean feat, even for a designer with 5 years Fashion Week experience under her belt. For me, lincic's collection is the best attempt at glamorous leisure I've ever seen - the show was beautiful and incredibly confident, crafted with an understanding of the modern woman and her need for a fashionable, comfortable wardrobe.
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